Iran part 1

Iran. 

Land of a thousand colours. 

What to say about this country? I am not going to talk about how beautiful it is and what to visit.
I just want to share my experiences as a cyclist and as a women in the country.
Pictures are added randomly.

First of all: I started the Iran trip with Bernard. A Belgian bike-traveller I met in Armenia.
In Armenia, we had also met 2 other biker-couples, who had ridden from Iran, both told us to try to stay together, so I wouldn’t be on my own.
Therefore I felt quite relieved when Bernard waited for me at the border, while I went back to Yerevan to get my Iranian visa.

Anyway: first things first: A new style for me: long sleeves, trousers and a hijab.

Soon I noticed how life would be for me in Iran:  All the men only talked to Bernard, they only shook hands with Bernard, sometimes I would get a  'Hello' other times I was completely ignored, they would walk pass me and start a conversation with Bernard.
Although it was a bit strange for me at first, I didn’t mind, as all the attention we were getting was so overwhelming, it was almost a relief for me to be left alone and let Bernard do all the talking.

Bernard also discussed prices, arranged for the bikes to get on the bus and talked to hotel managers.  I didn't even have to try, because with Bernard around, I am ignored. Still it’s fine by me: I just go and eat an ice-cream, while he does all the business!

However, once I am alone I am no longer ignored. Every man thinks I need help for something or comes to ask where I am going. Well thx for offering guys, but I am just going to the toilet...so if you don't mind...!

Woman alone almost never approach me.  They all look at me as if I come from another planet, only occasionally some may ask where I am from.

When couples come to talk to us the woman will only talk to me and shake hands with me, the man will do the same with Bernard.  Then it would mostly be the woman who gives me some food.

There are 2 types of women here: the ones who are more progressive, who wear jeans, but always with a coat that covers the upper half of the legs, their hijab covers only half of their head, but they are actually  very fashionable. These are the woman that would talk to me sometimes.

Apparently there are different styles of black.. 

Then there is the other group. They are in black. They have this coat-hijab-(I don't know the name)it goes all the way down to their feet. You can only see their face and if you come closer they will cover their face, even more so you just see their eyes.
In one village they were all brown-purple. In another very small village they had colours, but in general its just black. I can't help but associate it with 'the handsmade tale'.

Both groups of women also don't mix. It's not done.

Anyway, back to the biking-experience.
It is incredible how many reactions we have:  Everyone wants to know where we are from. Everyone is shouting: 'Welcome to Iran!  Everyone wants to check out our equipment and so many people want to offer us their water or fruit.  If we stand still for 1 minute people come to offer their help.
When we put our bike together we get help. Well at least, Bernard gets help from 5 men, while I have to do it on my own... Oops I forgot to mention... Men don't help women.! 😅

You would think that Iranians are so incredibly hostile!!  And often they are, but at the same time the land is so full of contradictions.  I just met a Belgian couple, also travelling by bike, although they had left their bikes in Teheran to travel by bus for a while and since they only had backpacks the Iranian hospitality had disappeared and they even got hate-reactions. Strange..

Maybe we just get so much positive attention because travelling by bike is a curiosity.

So I haven't made up my mind yet about the country. But one thing is for sure: it's a beautiful country and it is a very interesting experience for me. There are so many things and places to visit, you just can't do it all.
Besides all that, there are some important thoughts that I would like to share....but I will save them for the next blog...when I'm out of the country.. 😉

I am curious to see how my trip will continue without Bernard as I will be travelling alone as a woman. I'm sure it will be fine. The men better be aware that they will have to discuss their prices with a woman now!!

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